News | First ascent of Surma-Sarovar (6605m), Nepal By Paul Ramsden and Tim Miller

Exciting news from Paul Ramsden, Tim Miller, Matt Glenn and Hamish Frost who have just returned from ‘the wildest trip they have ever been on’ in one of the most isolated regions of Nepal.

The team travelled to the Salimor Khola valley in the far west of Nepal, possibly one of the most remote regions of Nepal. Just getting to base camp was a major achievement with difficult river crossings and earthquakes all posing challenges. From base camp they still had to explore a huge area of mountains before settling on a suitable objective. Paul and Tim managed to make the first ascent of Surma-Sarovar, which they measured at 6605m, over an eight day outing from base camp. They climbed the mountain via its north face which was over 2100m high and highly committing (ED), over four days. The descent was long and complex and took a further two days to descend.

Hamish and Matt despite some serious effort on two adjacent peaks were unfortunately unsuccessful. The pair first tried an amazing looking 800m gully line leading to an unclimbed 6000m peak. After good progress on the first day they had to retreat after a steeper section where the ice ran out (and the tent got buried and trashed by spindrift). They next attempted a 6400m subsidiary peak of Surma-Sarovar. Having both already fallen through cornices and having seen the summit slope on the left avalanche, they made the decision to turn back 200m below the summit.

Full story to follow.

Topo of Tim & Paul’s ascent and descent route on Surma-Sarovar. Photo by Hamish Frost. 

Paul and Tim on the Summit.

Matt Glenn crossing back over the high point (at 6300m on the ridge) he and Hamish Frost reached on a 6400m subsidiary peak of Surma-Sarovar, during the descent. Photo by Hamish Frost.

Cover Image, Paul Ramsden, Surma-Sarovar. Photo by Tim Miller.